|

Why Dye Mulch? by Charlie Plonski
Spring 2000 Volume 14, No. 1
Over the last
few years I have noticed a great deal of bark and wood chip mulches
being used that are dyed some tone of orange. Their use raises
some issues for me both horticulturally and aesthetically.
Every winter
gardeners plan their gardens with great care. Plant varieties
researched, color schemes planned, designs refined. Spring finds
us visiting nurseries selecting the best Vermont Grown plants
to grace the garden with their living, breathing presence. Time
and money spent to enhance your landscape. The plants and their
layout is what garden visitors should be admiring, not a mulch
whose color I've yet to see in nature.
Woodchips
present a different problem in the garden. Culturally, the use
of hardwood chips - dyed or plain - should be avoided. Because
the chips are not finely ground they will needlessly rob vital
nutrients from the soil to aid in decomposition. This will have
a detrimental effect on the plants you mulch (especially annuals & perennials)
causing them to look ill or under nourished. Partially decomposed,
finer ground softwood mulches donŐt present as much of a problem.
Now bark mulch,
if used properly, serves a very functional purpose in the landscape.
Partially decomposed, double-ground bark mulch conserves water
in the soil while helping maintain consistent soil temperature.
It suppresses weed growth and eventually adds organic matter
to the upper soil profile. All the while giving established beds
a fresh tidy look in spring.
Over time,
bark mulch decomposes and can be safely incorporated into the
soil. However, the process of decomposition, even with finely
ground softwood mulches, can deplete the supply of nitrogen available
to your plants. We have found this especially true with annuals
and perennials. If you use mulch on annual and perennial beds,
top dress the garden with Farm-Crafted Compost or Pro-Gro fertilizer
before mulching lightly.
For new beds,
first dig and remove the sod from the bed. This sod can be incorporated
into your compost pile. After you have planted your shrubs or
trees spread a 3-4 inch layer of mulch. A word of caution NEVER
PILE MULCH AGAINST A PLANT'S STEM OR TRUNK!! Your 3 inch layer
will eventually settle to 1/2 of its original depth. Each spring,
re-mulch with 1 1/2 inches to freshen the look, being careful
not to accumulate too thick of a layer.
One key to
suppressing the weeds is to dig a deep edge between the bed and
the grass. Try to make a 4" vertical slice into the soil,
which you can then fill with mulch. This slice, or edge, will
suppress grasses and weeds from migrating from the lawn and surroundings
into the bed.
When re-mulching
shade trees it is a good idea to remove last year's mulch before
applying fertilizer and new mulch. If you allow mulch to accumulate
year after year, the tree's fine roots will begin to grow up
into the mulch causing the tree to become more susceptible to
stress during dry periods. Mulch rings should be 6-8' in diameter
and 2-3" deep, making sure to leave the area near the trunk
bare.
Understated
and functional, non-dyed bark mulch has a place in the landscape
without being visible in the dark. This year Horsfords has a
steady supply of bulk pine or hemlock available. Hemlock is more
reddish-brown in tone and seems to hold its color better through
the season while pine is earthy brown in color. Both are available
for pick-up or delivery. |