Shade Trees
(Balled and Burlapped - B&B)
The hole: Excavate a pit which is at least twice the diameter of the rootball and the same depth -no deeper. Handle the tree by the rootball, not the trunk. Be sure the rootball or container soil rest on solid ground. For best root development, enlarge the planting area by removing existing turf, then spading or tilling soil in a wide ring. Carefully cut twine wrapped around the stem at the top of the rootball. Remove burlap from top half of the rootball to prevent wicking of moisture from the soil. Remove completely any plastic burlap or container.

Backfill soil: Backfill the pit with chopped excavated soil. Use local topsoil for backfill if excavated soil is of poor quality. Discard rocks and debris.

Water: Saturate the entire backfilled soil with water. Add more soil if needed to compensate for settling.

Mulch: Cover smoothed soil with 3 inches of bark mulch. Do not allow mulch to touch the root flare of the tree. Keep mulch weeded. Replace as needed.

Pruning: Remove only broken or badly deformed branches. Begin a regular pruning program the second or third year after planting.

The following procedures are optional:

Stakes: Stakes may be used to prevent shifting of the rootball or to protect the stem from moving equipment. Drive one or more stakes near the tree but not through the roots.

Ties: If ties are used to prevent shifting, place them low on the stem and with slack in the tie material. Wires should be placed through tubing or hose sections to prevent damage to the bark. Flexible plastic ties are available. Remove ties as soon as the tree can stand alone - about three months to no more than a year.

Shrubs (Container-grown)
Container grown shrubs can be “pot bound.” Check for girdling roots and cut them off close to the crown of the plant. If roots deeper in the pot have begun to circle, pry them out and direct them into the soil. If this proves difficult, use a sharp knife or prunes to “score” the root ball vertically in 3 or 4 places to disrupt the circling roots and stimulate new root growth. Plant in a hole that is twice as big as the root ball and backfill with excavated soil amended with good compost or an organic fertilizer. - Illustrations from Taylor’s Guide to Shrubs, 1987.

Perennials (Pot-grown)
When planting pot-grown perennials, lay the plant down on the ground in the pot. Dig planting holes wide enough and just deep enough for the root ball. To remove the plant from the pot, turn the pot upside down and hit the bottom with an implement to loosen the roots from the pot. Do NOT pull the stem part of the plant. Remove from the pot and break up the roots on the sides of the ball before planting. Set the rootball in the hole so that the top of the ball is level with the surface of the soil. Push soil around and just over the top of the root ball, push firmly on the soil and then water the plant thoroughly.