Garden Blog

Butterfly Gardens: Planting the Big Picture

July 17, 2018 by E. Schilling

Many homeowners visit the nursery requesting plants that will attract butterflies. What they actually desire are plants with beautiful flowers that butterflies will gravitate to for their abundant nectar. The choices are many and the gardeners at Horsford’s can select a plant suitable for just about any location. But if you want butterflies to return year after year you need to provide more than pretty flowers. A true butterfly garden needs to have both host plants and nectar plants.

The life of a butterfly is very short. It spends most of its time looking for a mate, looking for a host plant on which to lay its eggs, and drinking nectar. The host plant is the food for the butterfly’s larvae. Larvae must hatch on that particular plant because they do not wander looking for food. Some butterflies have a variety of plants that are suitable caterpillar sustenance, while others are limited. Most people focus only on flowering plants for the nectar. A good example would be the popular Buddleia plant (Butterfly Bush). Buddleia is native to central China and Japan. In the late 1800’s plant explorers/collectors introduced it to Europe and then America. Mid summer it is covered with gorgeous flowers to which monarchs flock offering great photo opportunities. However, not a single butterfly will use it as a host plant.

Coneflower and phlox in a Charlotte garden

It will take a little planning and research but anyone can plant a garden that will have butterflies visiting year after year. The easiest way to start is to install plants that serve the dual purpose of host and nectar. All of the milkweeds (Asclepias) are ideal plants. There is the orange and yellow butterfly weed, the common milkweed, and the swamp milkweed. This collection will fill the garden with flowers from June through September and they are host plants for at least a dozen species of butterflies, the most famous being the Monarch.

Asclepias tuberosa / butterfly weed (orange flowering plant) in Horsford’s display gardens

Below is a list of other excellent choices for a Vermont gardener wishing to entice butterflies to their gardens year after year. Keep in mind that you should always choose the original or true native of the species. For instance, the native Coneflower is Echinacea purpurea. When you are choosing a plant for both a host and nectar, butterflies prefer this over the newer hybrids.

– Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia varieties)

– Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) – this performs well in wet sites

– Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium varieties)

– Native Willows (Salix)

– Tulip Trees (Liriodendron tulipifera)

– Black Cherry trees (Prunus) – many people are quick to cut down Black Cherry trees as ‘weed trees’. Think before you pull out that chainsaw, as the black cherry sustains over 400 moths and butterflies species!

– Violets (Viola)

– Oak (Quercus)

– Spicebush (Lindera benzoin)

Further suggested reading: Bringing Nature Home by Douglas Tallamy

All About Hydrangea

June 25, 2018 by Horsford Team

Up until July, the hydrangea occupy a very large corner of the Garden Center somewhat overlooked. Despite their lush green spring growth, they garner the most attention when their familiar white, pink, purple, blue, and lime green blooms start showing off in the summer.

When it comes to picking out a hydrangea even we admit it can be a little intimidating. Below is more information to guide you this hydrangea season.

Hydrangea paniculata (Panicle hydrangea)

A plethora of varieties to pick from in shades of white, lime green, light pink, deep pink. Flowers start white and fade to one color or another with time. Beautiful fresh or dried in arrangements.

Browse varieties here.

Treeform Hydrangea (Panicle hydrangea – Treeform)

These are Hydrangea paniculata that have been pruned into the shape of a small tree. They have the same panicle-shaped flowers and come in the same varieties as the shrub form.

Browse varieties here.

Hydrangea macrophylla (Big-leaf hydrangea)

These have the quintessential, globular flowers many associate as a hydrangea. Excellent cut flowers.

Browse varieties here.

Hydrangea arborescens (Smooth hydrangea)

These have large leaves with rounded flowers, though they aren’t as globular as the Hydrangea macrophylla. The florets that make up the flower clusters as not as big either. Of all the hydrangeas we carry, this is the only native type. Look for the ‘Invincebelles’ planted along the barn near our cut flower and propagation beds. They have reliably bloomed for many years now.

Browse varieties here.

Hydrangea serrata (Mountain hydrangea)

Their compact habit make them an excellent choice for smaller landscapes. Intriguing, flattened lacecap flowers distinguish them from other hydrangea. We’ve found their bud hardiness is more reliable than Hydrangea macrophylla.

Browse varieties here.

Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf hydrangea)

They really do have lobed leaves and radiant fall foliage that resemble oak. Flowers are large upright panicles.

Browse varieties here.

Hydrangea petiolaris (Climbing hydrangea)

The only hydrangea that climbs! Unique textured flowers, glossy foliage, bark interest during the winter. Look for the specimen growing on the west side of the Garden Center.

Browse varieties here.

Our Top Hydrangea Questions

1.What’s the bluest hydrangea that will grow well in Vermont?

Hydrangea serrata ‘Blue Billow’ is the most blue of the mountain hydrangeas. If you’re looking for the big-leaf blue hydrangeas (like what you see on the Cape), we’ve found Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Bloomstruck’ has the hardiest buds. You will need to amend the soil to be more acidic for true blue flowers.

2. Does Horsford’s carry PeeGee hydrangea?

Yes, we do. PeeGee hydrangea can refer to a few different varieties but usually, it’s a full-flowered, panicle variety. Historically it has been Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’. We also recommend Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ since it’s a nice full flower and more upright than ‘Grandiflora’. Hydrangea paniculata ‘Sweet Summer’ is also a nice choice.

3. What dwarf varieties do you have?

Some of our growers’ favorites include Hydrangea paniculata ‘Bobo’, ‘Little Lime’ and ‘Little Quickfire’.

4. What’s the hardiest hydrangea available?

The Hydrangea arborescens varieties are the hardiest. We recommend ‘Annabelle’.

5. Are hydrangea native?

Of all hydrangea we carry, only Hydrangea arborescens and its ‘nativars’ are native.

Butterflies are commonly found on hydrangea in the Garden Center

6. Do pollinators like hydrangea?

Hydrangea aren’t the highest nectar plants but pollinators do seem to like them. We see butterflies and insects enjoying the plants here at the nursery.

7. When and how do I prune hydrangea?

This varies between types:

Arborescens – cut back as far as you want in fall or early Spring. You’ll get flowers on the new growth.

Paniculata/Treeform – cut back no more than one third of the plant at a time in fall or early Spring and you’ll get flowers on the new growth. Thinning is recommended for Treeform.

Serrata and Macrophylla – Don’t cut in the fall. Wait and see how far up the stems the plant is budding out. In Spring, cut back to where they’re budding out.

Oakleaf and Climbing – prune to desired shape in early Spring.

8. How much sun do hydrangea prefer?

Overall, morning sun with afternoon shade is ideal. Most can handle more sun but they will likely require more watering.

Arborescens – can handle more shade but will bloom better with half day of sun.

Paniculata and Treeform – full half day of sun needed to bloom well. These can handle the most sun though.

Serrata, Oakleaf, and Macrophylla – half day of sun, afternoon shade preferred.

Climbing – can handle shade

“What Do You Guys Do All Winter?”

February 23, 2018 by E. Schilling

While planting, digging, dead-heading, plowing and seeding the fields, mowing, etc. all come to a grinding halt come December, there is still plenty to be done in preparation for next season at Horsford Gardens and Nursery. Happily, there is no sense of urgency so everyone is pretty relaxed.

The company cats take their relaxation very seriously and dedicate hours to perfecting it.

Frederick and Liu relaxing during the winter

Pruning deciduous trees in our fields is a big project. Our ultimate goal is to produce a well-shaped tree with strong leaders and branching that starts at about five feet or more off the ground. This means that when a customer buys it to plant on their property they can plant under it, mow under it, park under it or hang a swing from its branches. Pruning and shaping a tree while it is still young makes for a more attractive tree as it matures.

Ralph prunes in fields — Ralph pruning crabapples in the fields

Some trees may show signs of insect damage, disease or rodent damage, or have weak trunks. They get the saw. There is not a sadder sight or sound to a nurseryman than a saw in the field.

Trees that are sawed off — Trees that are not growing strong are composted

Over the course of a season we accumulate a massive amount of debris. It is all separated into individual piles: compost, recycle and burn. The burn pile can become quite dense. We routinely burn it throughout the season. In February we burn whatever has been piled on since November so we can begin in April anew. This would include trees and evergreens that have been out of the ground for just a little too long as well as trees that have obvious signs of disease or insect damage. Not extra Christmas trees and greens, though. All of that went to a goat farm here in Charlotte. ( Their milk may have a slight balsam flavoring to it for a few weeks.)

Burn pile of brush — Brush and natural debris we cannot recycle or compost is burned

Our co-worker's goats enjoyed leftover Christmas trees — Our co-worker Miles’ goats enjoyed the leftover Christmas trees, down to the trunk!

We walk the fields often on the lookout for signs of the presence of rodents: rabbits, mice and voles. Rabbits are uninvited pruners, nibbling the tips of shrubs such as lilacs and ilex. Our defense is to spray the area with a non-toxic but foul smelling liquid that will hopefully send them else where for meals.

Damage to lilac — Animal damage to shrubs

Animal tracks in snow — Tracks on their way to the buffet

The destruction happening by voles, moles and mice is impossible to see when the snow is deep. That is because they burrow close to the ground where they have set up residence. But once we experience a thaw, look out, those critters are everywhere. The only defense we have, or rather the only defense we are willing to use, is to protect every crabapple and fruit tree on the property with a plastic tree guard. This $2 item is truly a money saver. To keep the little rodents away from our tasty shrubs would require broadcasting poison and we are not willing to do that. There is too much wildlife on the property. So we just cross our fingers and hope that the coyotes, bobcats and hawks know that this is the place to come for the best winter buffet.

Hawk in tree — Red-tailed Hawks are commonly found at the nursery. Photo courtesy Wikipedia.com

Coyote tracks around the nursery — Coyote tracks from around the nursery

Not everything is all work here during the winter months. Those of us who enjoy it take advantage of the cold snowy weather both here in Vermont and out West. We have lots of skiers, riders, and cross county skiers. Should the ponds, rivers and lake freeze, quite a few of us strap on skates and spend hours bundled up skating up and down rivers and round and round on ponds.

Charlie skiing with group — Charlie skiing out West

Steve skiing out West — Steve snowboarding out West

Some staff opt for warmer weather botanical adventures.

Kristin at Longwood Gardens — Kristin visited Longwood Gardens

Jessica visited the Los Angeles Flower Market

Succulents at Los Angeles Flower Market — Succulents at the Los Angeles Flower Market

Live Christmas Trees

November 10, 2017 by Horsford Team

horsford-selection-live-christmas-trees

Any evergreen you select can be used as a live Christmas tree that can be planted and enjoyed for many years to come. We suggest selecting a tree you most want to have in your landscape.

After bringing the tree home, place it in a protected outdoor spot, such as the north side of the garage. Cover the roots with a bag of mulch to help prevent them from freezing. Mulching a couple of inches beneath the ball will prevent the tree from freezing to the ground. We also recommend placing a bale of straw or hay over the spot where you want to plant the tree to keep the ground from freezing. It really will!

Sometime before Christmas, bring the tree to your chosen spot to celebrate with. Place the root ball in a bucket or garden trug and water. Stash the mulch for later use. Keeping the tree indoors for three days is ideal.

After Christmas, bring the tree out to your planting spot. A spraying with Wilt-Pruf will keep the harsh winter temperatures from drying out the needles. Remove the straw and scrape off the sod. Dig the hole the exact depth of the root ball, no deeper, and two times wider. Plant the tree with the soil you just dug, adding only organic fertilizer to the soil. We use three handfuls of Pro-Gro by North Country Organics. Mulch with the mulch you stashed.

In the springtime, don’t forget this is a newly planted tree and it’s necessary to water it as needed. You can also add three more handfuls of Pro-Gro to the mulched tree ring.

Our Garden Center is happy to help and answer any questions you have. We carry a number of items mentioned above including: evergreens, mulch, bales of straw, rubber trugs, Wilt-Pruf, tools and gloves, Pro-Gro fertilizer, and more.

Growing Amaryllis

November 7, 2017 by E. Schilling

It is blustery cold outside today in Charlotte, Vermont. The temperatures are a low of 24 degrees and dropping. Bright sunlight gives the illusion (wish) of warmth while strong northern winds cause a wind chill in the single digits. My son-in-law, a native Brazilian, is experiencing the coldest day of his life. I am arranging amaryllis bulbs in baskets to sell in our garden shop while fantasizing about the warmth of their native South Africa.

horsford-pink-white-amaryllis

We associate the big beautiful flowers with the cold of winter but they are native to very warm climates. Dug and shipped to suppliers in the USA, they arrive in time to be planted for indoor winter gardening.

The bulbs you purchase already have all the energy they need to produce this year’s flowers. They don’t need special treatment, coaxing, a green thumb or fertilizer. If left forgotten in a warm spot they will push out blossoms without soil or water! However, it is preferable to pot them up. Here is how.

How to Plant Amaryllis

Choose a bulb that feels firm to the touch. Select a pot that is only slightly larger than the bulb. You will want a scant excess of an inch around the bulb. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Using sterile potting soil, put enough in the pot so that when planted, the top quarter of the bulb sits above the soil surface. Tuck soil all around the bulb and, if you want, top dress with decorative gravel.

Horsford amaryllis bulbs pots — Amaryllis bulbs in various pottery from the Garden Center.

Water well allowing excess water to drain before setting it on a coaster or dish. Place the potted bulb in a sunny warm site and leave it alone. Do not water it again until you notice fresh green shoots. Then water it thoroughly. As it grows you should water whenever the soil seems dry to the touch. I like to put the whole pot in the kitchen sink and soak it. Let it sit there while all the water drains away and then put it back on its coaster. You do not want the roots to sit in standing water.

Amaryllis Blooms

Flowering can take anywhere from 6 to 10 weeks depending on the state of dormancy of your bulb and the temperature of your room.

Amaryllis are florist favorites. They can last as a cut flower for up to 2 weeks. Sometimes if the weight of the blooms causes the stem to bend over, I cut the blossom and put it in a vase. Keep the cut flower in a cooler spot out of direct sunlight.

What to Do After an Amaryllis Flowers

Now the big question… What do I do with my amaryllis after it blooms?? There are lots of different answers. I will tell you what I have done. I cut the flower stalk to the base of the plant. Leave the bulb in a warm sunny spot and continue to water as usual. Come Spring, when the temperature has warmed to at least 50 degrees day and night, I gather all my potted bulbs and place them outside. Usually I tuck them in my herb garden where they get plenty of sunlight. They remain there, getting only rain water, until early November. I then bring them indoors and put them in the basement where they remain until I notice fresh, green shoots emerging. Once that happens I bring them up into a warm sunny room and start watering them.

Alternatively you could try what my friend Ted did one year. Ted inherited his mother’s amaryllis. It had been confined to life in a small flower pot for 5 years. Being the good gardener that he is he took pity on the plant and stuck it in his vegetable garden. The amaryllis grew and flourished. Just before the first frost he dug it up. The bulb had grown considerable and now had many side bulbs. Ted stuck it, dirt and all, into a clay pot and took it indoors. In January it started sending out multiple shoots. By the end of the month he had 5 blooming stalks, each with 4 flowers. It was absolutely stunning! I guess it goes to show that there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to gardening.

Browse 2018 varieties

Preparing Your Garden for Winter

November 1, 2017 by E. Schilling

Avid gardeners know the gardening season isn’t over even as summer is winding down. In fact, it seems there’s just as much to do as in the spring, if not more! Here are a few tasks we make sure not to miss in the gardens at Horsford Gardens and Nursery:

The Vegetable Garden

Root vegetables like beets and carrots sweeten with cold weather.

After your final harvest pull up annuals such as tomatoes, peppers, and beans. Remove leaf litter to help prevent the wintering over of leaf-borne diseases. Leave root vegetables for harvesting later, and brussels sprouts until after the Thanksgiving meal. You can also leave kale plants, as they tolerate some frost.

Topdress cleaned beds with a light layer of compost. Once the bed is cleaned and prepped, it’s good to plant a cover crop to prevent erosion and weeds, to break up compacted soil, and to work into the garden later.

Some gardeners rototill their gardens in fall with the belief this brings insect eggs to the surface to perish. The following season you may see less bug issues but there is no guarantee.

Herbs and Annuals

Annual flowers and herbs last one season. After your final harvest and seed gathering pull up the plants and compost them. Woody perennial herbs such as thyme, savory and lavender don’t die to the ground so cutting them back late in the season can kill them. Herbs such as tarragon and lovage can be cut to the ground.

Perennials

A perennial is a non-woody plant that dies to the ground each fall while the roots persist through winter. New growth emerges in spring from the crown. Cutting back the entire perennial garden has become standard practice in recent years. There are pros and cons to this.

Pros: It looks tidy. You get a jump on spring garden chores. Rodents cannot hide under stems and dead foliage, or live off the crowns of plants such as hosta, geraniums and daylilies.

Cons: You’ve made the garden bare and unprotected from winter’s elements. Stems left standing will trap blowing leaves and falling snow. The layer of leaves and snow helps maintain a constant temperature and prevents intermittent freezing and thawing that can kill plants. Decomposed leaves are wonderful soil builders. Birds live on bugs in the summer, and seeds and berries all winter. Leaving your grasses and coneflowers standing provides a natural food source all winter.

Cut back hosta leaves in early October before they turn to mush after a frost. Set out rodent traps beginning in August when critters are preparing their nests for the long winter.

Trees

Protect your tree investment with a $2 tree collar!

If you have newly planted young trees, especially fruit trees, wrap plastic tree guards around the trunk from the ground up. Tuck the bottom end into the ground. This is your best method to prevent mice and voles from girdling the tree, and will be the best $2 you spend on your landscape.

Shrubs

Prune Hydrangea paniculata in fall or spring.

Prune plants that bloom on new wood in late summer or fall. Hydrangea paniculata, in particular, benefit from a sharp pruning that helps strengthen branches.

Shrubs that bloom on old wood, such as lilacs, should not be pruned in the fall. Doing so will remove all of next spring’s flowers.

Newly planted shrubs (and trees) should be well watered right up to frost. If winter is light on snowfall and spring is light on rainfall, resume supplemental watering in the spring.

Plants begin to “shut down” and prepare for dormancy in late August when the days shorten and evening temperatures cool. You should stop fertilizing and adding compost to plants at this time. Late season feeding can trick a plant into growing, especially if we are treated to an Indian Summer.

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Butterfly Gardens: Planting the Big Picture